Embroidery on plastic canvas is the trend for creative DIY projects! With the sturdy bag canvas from ReStyle, you can easily create a stylish clutch, perfect as an accessory or a gift.
In this blog, ReStyle blogger Alexa takes you step by step through the process. She used Durable Velvet in a gorgeous deep blue shade to give her bag a luxurious look. By combining the soft yarn with gold-colored hardware from ReStyle—such as a chain, musceton hooks, and D-rings—she created a bag even Chanel would be jealous of! 😉
What makes your clutch unique depends on the chosen embroidery stitch, accessories, and yarns. You can experiment with patterns, colors, and extra details to make a bag that perfectly matches your style.
Whether you’re a beginner or already experienced in embroidery on canvas, this DIY is easy to follow and delivers fantastic results. And be warned… before you know it, all your friends will want one too!
Are you ready to start? Share your creation on Instagram with #LetsReStyle and tag @restyle_studio_!
Supplies
- ReStyle Plastic Canvas for bags 35.6 x 33 cm (Art. 015.19016)
- Gold-tone chain (color 040), 11mm wide, 140cm used for the sample (Art. 006.1001)
- ReStyle D Ring 30mm (color 040), 2 pieces (Art. 015.15300.30)
- ReStyle Musceton Hook 30mm (color 040), 2 pieces (Art. 015.15502.30)
- ReStyle Sew-on Snap Fastener 25mm (black), 1 piece (Art. 015.12018)
- Durable Velvet, color 321 Navy, 1 skein
- Durable Embroidery & Crochet Cotton, color 1013 (or 1051), scrap for attaching the snap fastener
Other supplies
- Blunt needle (e.g., ReStyle Embroidery Needles 18 – 26, Art. 015.10612)
- Small embroidery needle for sewing on the snap fastener
- Jewelry pliers
- ReStyle Gold Embroidery Scissors 13cm (Art. 027.16)
- Stitch markers
- Measuring tape
Dimensions
You will be working with the ReStyle Plastic Canvas for bags, measuring 35.6 x 33 cm. Once assembled, the finished bag will be approximately 10 x 18 x 4.5 cm.
Tags
Work description
Step 1: Measuring your yarn to embroider your bag
Before You Begin: Always use a blunt needle for stitching on plastic canvas. Avoid cutting overly long strands of Durable Velvet when embroidering, as long strands tend to tangle easily and the Velvet yarn may lose its texture due to repeated stitching. Using shorter lengths will help prevent waste.
Don’t take too much yarn at once. I measured the Durable Velvet based on the width of the canvas and chose to cut a length that is four times the width of the canvas. If preferred, three times the width is also sufficient. Choose the length that works best for you.
Step 2: Determining your starting point
The embroidery pattern covers 8×8 squares. I started embroidering from the bottom edge of the main panel, working in rows upward. To find your starting point: Count 3 squares up from the bottom edge and 8 squares to the right from the lower-left corner. Insert your needle from back to front at this point.
Step 3: Embroidering the first 8x8 square
Refer to the diagram for the embroidery pattern if needed.
You have just brought the needle through the first square. Pull it all the way through, leaving a small yarn tail on the back. Hold this tail in place as you work your first stitches, securing it as you go.
Stitch 1: For this square, I chose to start 3 squares up from the bottom edge and 8 squares to the right from the lower corner. Insert your needle from front to back into the square diagonally lower right from this point (1 square down and 1 square to the left relative to your starting point). This will cover 2 squares diagonally.
You can see that one square remains empty below the embroidered stripe. This is intentional, as it will be used later to create a neat border.
Stitch 2: Insert the needle from back to front through the canvas in the square directly above the starting point. Insert the needle from front to back through the canvas into the square directly to the left of the square where you just inserted the needle back through to the back. This covers 3 squares diagonally.
Stitches 3-6: Insert the needle in the same way each time: one square above the previous square when inserting from back to front, and one square further to the left. Each stitch covers one extra square diagonally.
Stitch 7: This stitch is slightly different at the edge of the canvas because the bottom-left square is missing. Instead, insert the needle into the last diagonal square where you can before reaching the edge. Normally, this stitch would cover 7 squares diagonally, but due to the corner, it only covers 6.
Stitch 8: From this stitch onward, the diagonal lines will gradually decrease in size to form the square.
Insert the needle from back to front through the canvas in the square directly to the left of the previous square where you brought the needle up. Insert the needle from front to back through the canvas into the square directly above the square where you would have inserted it back if the corner hadn’t been missing (since the corner is absent, you insert it next to the actual stitch instead, as shown in the photo). This covers 6 squares diagonally.
Stitches 9-13: Insert the needle in the same way each time: one square to the left of the previous square when inserting from back to front, and one square further up. Each stitch covers one less square diagonally (stitch 9 covers 5 squares, and by stitch 13, only 2 squares remain).
The first square is now embroidered. Insert the needle through the back of the canvas, passing under the stitches, to move to the starting point of the next square.
Step 4: Embroidering the second 8x8 square
This follows the same method as the first square, but this time you will work from left to right, so the diagonal stitches will slant in the opposite direction.
Stitch 1: For this square, I chose to start 3 squares up from the bottom edge and 8 squares to the right from the lower corner. As you can see, this is the exact same point where you started square 1. You will work from the same stitch, ensuring a seamless pattern.
Insert your needle from front to back into the square diagonally lower right from this point (1 square down and 1 square to the right relative to your starting point). This will cover 2 squares diagonally.
Stitch 2: Insert the needle from back to front into the square directly above the starting point of this square. Then, insert it from front to back into the square directly to the right of the square where you just stitched back. This will cover 3 squares diagonally.
Stitches 3-7: Continue in the same pattern:
- Insert the needle 1 square above and 1 square to the left the previous stitch when stitching from back to front.
- Insert the needle 1 square to the left when stitching from front to back.
- With each stitch, you will cover one additional diagonal square.
Stitch 8: From this point on, you will begin reducing the diagonal rows to form a square.
Insert the needle from back to front into the square directly to the right of the previous stitch. Then, insert the needle from front to back into the square directly above the square where you just stitched back. This will cover 6 squares diagonally.
Stitches 9-13: Continue using the same method:
- Insert the needle 1 square to the right of the previous stitch when stitching from back to front.
- Insert the needle 1 square up when stitching from front to back.
- With each stitch, you will cover one fewer diagonal square per step (5 squares in stitch 9, decreasing to 2 squares in stitch 13).
Step 5: Completing rows of squares
Continue alternating the left-diagonal and right-diagonal stitches until the entire row is covered with squares. You can fit 5 squares in width. Leave the edges unstitched for now.
When attaching or finishing a thread: weave it into the back of previous stitches and trim the excess.
Once the row is complete, move upward, ensuring that the squares align properly. Continue in rows until you reach the bottom and side edges of the bag. You should have 6 full rows of squares. If a square cannot be completed due to the edge, stitch as much as possible before moving on.
Leave 10 empty squares along the bottom and side edges. You should be able to complete 3 full rows of squares at the top of the canvas. You count 2 empty squares at the top of the canvas that will remain unstitched.
Step 6: Filling the empty spaces
Fill in the edges using diagonal stitches in the same direction as if you were completing a full square. Leave the outermost edge unstitched for now!
Step 7: Embroidering the sides and bottom of the bag
The sides and bottom of the bag are not embroidered with diagonal stitches, but rather straight stitches.
Begin at the left edge, embroidering from left to right across the entire width. Leave the outermost edge unstitched, but follow the contour of the bag and lengthen or shorten stitches when needed.
Ensure that the stitches on the bottom connect seamlessly with the embroidered squares.
Tip: For extra durability, double-layer the stitches by adding a second pass over the existing ones.
Step 8: Attaching the D-Rings
Attach the D-rings after embroidering the sides but before assembling the bag.
I positioned the rings between the 7th and 8th embroidered stitch on each side.
Secure them with straight stitches, first working from right to left, then back from left to right.
Step 9: Assembling the bag
Secure the front panel to the side panel with stitch markers before embroidering the seams.
Use straight stitches to close the seams, ensuring that the stitches align with the previous embroidery.
If needed, stitch twice in the same hole to adjust for turns at the corners.
Repeat for all edges, then embroider the top edge of the front panel and flap.
Step 10: Attaching the hardware
Cut the chain to size if necessary (or use jewelry pliers to open/close links). The sample bag uses a 140cm chain.
Open a link at each end and attach it to the swivel hooks. Clip the hooks onto the D-rings.
Attach the sew-on snap fastener using Durable Embroidery & Crochet Cotton.
Position the female part of the snap in the third embroidered square from the top inside the flap.
Fold the flap over to determine the position of the male snap, which should align with the third embroidered square from the top on the front panel.
Hide any loose threads by weaving them under previous stitches.
Final Touch: The bag is now complete!
For extra durability, you can spray the Velvet yarn with a strong hairspray to help set the embroidery before use.